30 August 2011- Grenoble

Today, Miss Boulangerie played perfect hostess and drove us to Annesy, which is a lakeside town where her father grew up. It is about 100 km from Grenoble, and the lake is nestled amongst mountains, quaint buildings and cobble stone streets. It’s officially known as the cleanest lake in the world and the ridiculously good looking people of Grenoble spend their holidays lounging back in their paddle boats, swimming in the lake, and enjoying the sun.

In Europe, the sun is bright and you feel obliged to follow the “Slip, Slop Slap” rule that was drilled into you at school. Accordingly, Man from Mars and I slathered on the sunscreen, padding it onto our ears, arms, neck, nose and legs. Not so for Miss Boulangerie who laughed at our comprehensive efforts and explained that the European sun “isn’t as strong as the Australian sun”. In hindsight, I think she was actually right. A general scan of the people on the streets shows a caramel tan that doesn’t verge on sunburn (yes, I know, tan is the first sign of sunburn, but you know what I mean- it’s not as immediate as it would be in Australia). And, even after being in the direct sun for 2 hours, we didn’t feel the usual sensation of dehydration that you feel after 45 minutes on Manly Beach.

Miss Boulangerie and I lay on the front part of the paddle boat, sunning ourselves while Man from Mars leapt randomly into the lake, taking half his towel with him. He kept lifting himself out of the water using the two front sections of the boat like parallel bars. I think he thought he was Thor.

Afterwards, we enjoyed fabulous gelato before driving back to Miss Boulangerie’s house.

[Annesy- Man from Mars and Miss Boulangerie:]

[Charming narrow streets:]

[Colourful houses- only in Europe:]

[Miss Boulangerie- busting out the paisley print because she's not in Paris anymore!]

[Pump those legs!]

[Sunning ourselves:]

[While Man from Mars swims and fools around:]

[After a great day:]

Dinner was a real treat with Miss Boulangerie’s mother cooking up a traditional French Fondue- combining three different types of cheese. Generally, this dish is eaten in winter after a long day of skiing in the French Alps, but Miss Boulangerie’s mother made us the exception to the general rule, and we dipped and ate and dipped and ate. It was delicious. The rule is that if you have that much cheese, you need to have wine/alcohol with your meal. If you don’t, the cheese solidifies in your stomach and you feel like you’re lugging a cannon around in your gut. Another rule of French mealtime is that every lunch and dinner consists of a main and a dessert (and usually wine/alcohol). In honour of this, we finished off dinner with a phenomenal mango icecream that had been made by Miss Boulangerie’s mother only an hour before. Such a treat and soo delightful.

It was seriously such a great day.

[Miss Boulangerie's mum cooking up a storm:]

[Lily/Alily the cutest, biggest dog in the world:]

[Fondue time!]

29 August 2011- Paris/Grenoble

Today was our last (half) day in Paris. We caught the train to Grenoble and were greeted by the vivacious Miss Boulangerie all decked out in her “Paris” outfit. To explain, Miss Boulangerie is originally from Grenoble, but has lived in Paris for the past year working hard in a marketing firm. She quit her job and is due to travel to Argentina in three weeks’ time- but in the meantime, she is back home. In Paris, people pretty much wear a “uniform” that consists of black, chic, and more chic black or white/navy and white striped top teamed with skinny leg jeans folded up twice plus white loafers. There’s a lot of cement, the weather ranges from steaming hot to rainy and grey, and the streets are narrow and crowded with cars and people. In Grenoble, it’s colourful, casual and perhaps not so coordinated. There are green rolling hills, the constant presence of the French Alps and blue skies. People are friendlier and the town square is much smaller.

Whereas, in Paris, we saw Miss Boulangerie decked out in the black two piece, Grenoble saw her go a little crazy in a paisley jumpsuit. As she says, “I couldn’t wear this in Paris- people would think I was crazy!” There’s a definite difference-- and in some way, the clothes people wear are pretty reflective of each city’s general atmosphere and approach.

Sartorial observations aside, after Miss Boulangerie picked us up, we drove to the top of a mountain and took some crazy photos. From memory, the building at the top of this hill was a former prison- Bastille (it’s at the top of a massive mountain for a reason- no easy way out for the unfortunate prisoners, who, ironically, were blessed with a picturesque view). We took a gondola over the city before joining Miss Boulangerie’s family and friends for an unforgettable night of eating, Chartreuse (a super strong alcohol that is distilled from a flower that is collected from mountain tops by monks in the French Alps) and singing.

Miss Boulangerie’s parents are the epitome of the glamorous French couple. Her mother is a musician with a silken voice, movie star looks, stylish bob and brilliant smile. Her father is a tall, athletic man with silvery hair, big strong arms and a serious face with a twinkle in his eyes. He set up a car wash business twenty-five years ago (Le Tunel), and they both work together to make it the success it is today. Meanwhile, her brother is a magician studying engineering who, at the tender age of twenty has already set up his own business- taking his tricks around to parties and functions.

The entire family is so welcoming and generous (with excellent English/French/German to match) and as we eat and talk on the back patio, accompanied by the French Alps, we understand why Miss Boulangerie was so miserable in Paris. It’s a warm and comforting change from the sometimes grumpy rush of the people of Paris and we look forward to the next two days here.

[Grenoble- blue skies and French Alps:]

[We could almost touch the clouds!]

[In the town square- Miss Boulangerie and her "Paris" outfit:]

[Le Tunel- the best car wash in Grenoble:]

[Miss Boulangerie and her magician brother-- and all that fromage:]

[Chartreuse:]

28 August 2011- Paris

The last three days have generally started at 9 am and ended at about 1 am, with miles and miles of walking, running and metro catching in between. Today we had a comparatively quiet day, taking a guided tour of the Opera House and wandering around Montmartre (which is near where our hotel is in Pigalle, the red light district-- think the Moulin Rouge). We had pastries and baguettes in the park, before wandering the markets which are filled with artists offering their work and portrait sketching services. Besides the sexual connotations Montmartre and the Moulin Rouge conjure up, by day, it’s actually a quaint part of Paris- charming and hidden away, as you walk all the way to the top of the hill to see the Sacre Coeur.

That night, we slept early- all those late nights and packed days caught up with me and at some point I caught a cold. It put a bit of a downer on our last night in Paris- but such are the trappings of travelling and holidays- you pound the pavement hard, you rush and push- and inevitably get sick. Still, it was a fantastic day, and we readied ourselves for our next stop- Miss Boulangerie and her hometown, Grenoble.

[The Opera House- where the Phantom of the Opera haunts!]

[The roof of the theatre:]

[The Phantom's Box:]

[Man from Mars as a member of the audience:]

[On the balcony of the Opera House. When it was built, it was the era of Narcissism and people stood on the steps of the Opera House more for appearances and to flaunt their wealth and status, rather than to simply enjoy the music and performances that were on offer:]

[Man from Mars- master photographer and the reflection of the city square in the window behind him:]

[Our hotel room and our awesome clothes line- Victor Masse Hotel- highly recommended:]

[Montmartre and the wall of "I love you" in many many languages:]

[Sacre Couer:]

["Turn it this way!" says I:]

[Better!:]

27 August 2011- Paris

Today we did what we were meant to do yesterday and daytripped to the Chateaux de Versailles (which is where King Henry XIV lived with Queen Marie Antoinette).

Versailles is about a 45 minute train ride from Paris. It’s considered “suburbia” and you don’t take the metro. Instead, you take an RER which is similar to the trains in Sydney. A little slower and you could say a little bit more rickety- made for those longer trips out of town.

The palace is phenomenal. Beautiful. Grand. Ostentatious. Ornate. Gold. All you think when you walk through the palace is-“I’m a Queen, wearing a big bouffant skirt and glistening crown, swishing through my palace” or, more realistically “you could get lost in here”. It is that big. The ceilings are so high- as high as a two storey house. It is so expensive and gives you an idea of how royalty lived in that era. The Hall of Mirrors is breathtaking. Meanwhile, marble is everywhere and the walls and ceilings are decorated with gold sculptures and paintings. Each room furnished with beautiful furniture (ps the beds were really small and accordingly the people must have been really short at that time!). The floor in the main ballrooms/foyer areas are tiled in black and white check (like a chess board) and out the back is a garden that goes for many many kilometres.

The weather was incredibly cooperative. Sunny when we entered and took the token entrance photos, rainy while we were inside, and sunny once more when we were out in the garden. Kudos to you, weather- we appreciated it very much.

[Started off sunny in Versailles:]

[The Hall of Mirrors:]

[Huge artworks adorn the ceilings:]

[Marie Antoinette's room:]

[An idea of how big the grounds are. That yellow speck is me!]

[The beautiful gardens- and sunny again:]

Afterwards, we trekked to the Musee d’Orsay. But we arrived at 5:30 pm, which is when the groundsmen empty the gallery for its closing time of 6 pm. Sadly, we weren’t able to go back in the last few days in Paris, and have rainchecked it for another trip to Paris in the future.

We then met with Miss Ebae at Gallery Lafyette and purchased some coveted Longchamp bags (what else do you buy when in France?). The ceiling of this department store is also pretty noteworthy- and it’s not dissimilar to the QVB.

To end another long day, we met up with Miss LaughingLina and Miss Ann Charlotte. Miss EBae and I haven’t seen them since 2007, where we were all on exchange together in Ottawa- it was a blast from the past, and we first had a lovely dinner at Odeon with Miss LaughingLina, before also enjoying a decadent chocolate gateau with Miss Ann Charlotte.

[Miss Ebae, Miss LaughingLina and I:]

[Moulin Rouge and Montmartre:]

[Miss Ann Charlotte, Miss LaughingLina, Miss Ebae and I:]

26 August 2011- Paris

Today, we woke up planning to go to Chateaux de Versailles. But the weather was dreary, the rain was going sideways and we weren’t much in the mood for daytripping. Instead, we stayed in Paris, unimpressed by the cold and the rain, and sort of ended up doing the same thing- a day trip of Paris, looping our way to the Notre Dame, the Arc de Triomphe and down the Champs Elysee to the Louvre.

The Notre Dame is an incredible, colossal cathedral- originally built in the 12 Century, you look up and the ceiling and can’t believe how they managed to construct it. The entrance is an intricate montage of faces, religious figures and gargoyles. The ceiling consists of multiple arches; it’s higher than you imagine and these pictures really don’t capture its size. In order to see the building in full, you need to stand back about 40 metres. And, once inside, you’re witness to the prettiest stained glass. When we visited, there was a mass taking place, and when the priest and the congregation sang, their voices echoed through the cathedral. Despite all the (hundreds of) tourists, it was a surreal experience. There are sculptures that depict Jesus’ life journey inside. From memory they were made in the 14^th Century and have been restored (repainted) a number of times. Again, you wouldn’t find this stuff in Australia, and it actually boggles my mind, because who knew to preserve it way back in the 15^th Century, so that we can view and talk about it today??

[The Notre Dame:]

[14th century sculptures depicting Jesus's life journey:]

[The super high ceilings:]

[Beautiful stained glass:]

[The front entrance:]

After Notre Dame, we battled the rain, and risked life and limb to take a photo on the median strip of a hectic Paris highway in front of the Arc de Triomphe. Again, it’s humungous- a lot bigger than you expect. As a result, according to Man from Mars, the median strip (which is about 20 metres from the Arc de Triomphe) is “the best place” to take a photo of it. So we do. So tourist. We climbed up heaps of steps, made it to the top and took the token “I made it to the top!” photo.

[Arc de Triomphe:]

[The "awesome" photo on the median strip:]

[The Arc de Triomphe up close:]

[View from the top of the Arc de Triomphe:]

In the theme of visiting Paris’ mandatory monuments, we then trotted down Champs Elysee, where I entered make-up heaven at Sephora. There, I got the reddest lipstain ever. I went a bit crazy and got four of the same (without trying it on first; I just dabbed it on the back of my hand. For future reference people, this is not a good way to determine whether a lip gloss will suit), and then when we got outside, I tried it on and realised it was a tad too vermillion red. Always supportive of the “you can go and change it right after you buy it” motto, Man from Mars reassured me that we could go straight back in and exchange the other ones. Nooo, it’s okay, I insisted. It was too embarrassing to exchange it straight away! (For the record, we went to another Sephora the next day and exchanged them).

We then wolfed down a crepe before marching to the Louvre. As Miss Tiny helpfully advised, when you go to the Louvre, you go in there with a plan and you stick to it. You go to the Mona Lisa, and then you get the hell out of the crowd. Unless you’re an arts fiend, you keep it short, sweet and snappy- otherwise, you’ll be in a confused world of hectic staircases. We did just that and, in contrast to the Arc de Triomphe and Notre Dame which were a lot bigger than I imagined, the Mona Lisa was much much smaller than I expected. It was flanked by a massive crowd and all I could think was “it’s the size of an A4 piece of paper!” Still, it’s one of those things you go to Paris for, right?

[The Louvre and my super red lip tint:]

[The Mona Lisa and The Crowd:]

[The Mona Lisa, protected by three layers of glass:]

Next stop, and marking the end of a colossal day of walking, was the Eiffel Tower by night. We waited in line for 2 hours for the lift to the top, and having been there and done that, is it wrong for me to say that you don’t need to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower to get the best view of Paris from above? You could go to the top of the Arc de Triomphe at night, and capture a sky line which includes the Eiffel Tower (which in my opinion makes the Parisian skyline). Or, you could also go up Montpanasse (officially known as Paris’s ugliest skyscraper) and see it all.

What a tiring and long day. We must have stood/walked for 13 hours!