Friday, September 16, 2011

12 September 2011- Rome

Today was a full and incredibly stinking hot day of walking and delving into the history of Rome. We started off at the Metro station to buy a Roma pass (the best way to jump the queues at the Colosseum and the Roman Forum) before making our way to our first stop for the day- the Colosseum.

The Colosseum was originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre and was built in 80AD. It is regarded as one of the greatest feats of engineering, and as you walk both inside and around what remains of the building, you can certainly appreciate why.

For example, when you first walk in, there are arches along the side, framing the wall that leads you into the amphitheatre. Each of these arches were built in an ingenious way where travertine blocks were stacked up from both sides of the arch and then as you got to the “peak” of the arch, the final piece was slotted in- eliminating the need for mortar because the inward pushing force of the blocks meant that none was necessary. Incredible, right?

[The arches:]

As we walked around, both the exterior, interior and into the “arena”, it was difficult to imagine how people (without the benefit of cranes and machinery) managed to build this mammoth structure. When you look down from where the spectators used to sit, you also get an interesting insight into how it all worked. Underneath the “floor” of the arena, there was a maze of doorways, elevators and passages where animals (lions, tigers, other scary things) could be ferried up and along, before they were released into the arena (up above) through a trap door. In this underground cavity, the animal keepers would feed and tend to the animals- it was like “backstage” to a theatre production, only, down below.

The gladiator would then have to fight the beast and if he was the victor then he received superstardom status. If he didn’t, he would be eaten by the beast and the Roman public would go wild (they were a pretty blood loving lot back then).

[The floor was usually made of wood, but underneath the floor was a hive of activity:]

It was sooo interesting and probably my favourite tourist attraction of the trip. One other thing to mention is the number of Aussie’s travelling around Italy right now. When we were inside the Colosseum, we heard one fifty something Aussie bloke say to another:

Imagine playing the AFL on that! (i.e. in the Amphitheatre)

And his friend said:

Yeah mate, it’d be like a bloody sauna!

It was pretty funny and quintessential Aussie.

[Man from Mars and I at the Collosseum:]

Afterwards, we had a supermarket bought lunch of pasta salad and then tiramisu to end. In Rome, you can’t just buy your lunch from the shops and sit down on a step and eat it—Rick Steves says it’s illegal and can result in you being fined. We’ve done it everywhere and you’d presume you’re entitled to do it anywhere—but not in Rome, you have to eat at a cafĂ© or restaurant, or else somewhere hidden away if you’re going to attempt a picnic/park lunch. Anyway, we took our chances and ate in front of the Colosseum near a Panini vendor and his truck. We figured we sort of looked like we’d bought it off him (even though we weren’t eating Panini!).

Full and reenergised we then spent the better part of the afternoon walking through the Roman Forum. This is an excavated site that sits below street level. It’s where Julius Caesar used to frequent in his hey day and there are reminders of ancient Rome everywhere. Lone standing pillars, collapsed walls and incredible monuments and arches that date back to the early years after Christ was born. While we were walking through this amazing area, we listened to our Rick Steves audioguide (get the app on your Iphone!) and again, you look at the relics and you can imagine how it all was when Rome was buzzing, at the top of its game and the superpower of the world. It’s sad to think that in the centuries following its peak, Rome collapsed and the area of luxe, wealth and beautiful buildings was literally buried by silt and rock. Even as you walk near the Roman Forum, excavators are still hard at work uncovering new artefacts from centuries passed.

[The Roman Forum. Can you see the Colosseum in the distance?]

[All that remains of Ancient Rome- sky high pillars showing only a hint of the grandeur and opulence of the palaces that stood on Palatine Hill:]

At the end of our tour of the Forum, we walked to Pantheon and witnessed some more Roman architectural ingenuity, marveling at the sheer size and dome of the Pantheon. Did you know, that as the builders drew closer and closer to the oculus (which is the high point of the dome and through which the sky is visible), the material used to build the dome was deliberately reduced in density? This ensured that the rotunda didn’t cave in, and didn’t need any further structural support. How smart is that? We also learnt that the material used for the front pillars came all the way from Egypt and had to be shipped and then dragged all the way to its current site. They were then lifted upright with the use of just ropes, pulleys and sheer manpower (i.e. hundreds of slaves).

[The Pantheon:]

[The huge pillars at the Pantheon's facade:]


[The incredible domed roof of the Pantheon:]

We left the Pantheon so impressed before having another fine Italian dinner at Target. Tomorrow, we do the Vatican City!

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