Today was yet another hot and steamy day. I woke to the sounds of two people rehearsing opera, accompanied by some fantastic piano playing- the chords and their voices echoing up through the narrow alley way. What an awesome way to start the morning.
[View from our hotel:]
Given that we were visiting Vatican City and in particular, the Sistine Chapel and St Peter's Basilica, dress code required that we both cover our shoulders and wear below the knee pants (note to those who go in the future, remember this fact, otherwise you’ll be refused entry by the security guards). The only pants I have in my suitcase wardrobe (besides shorts and stinking hot jeans) were these black ones that kind of look like sport track pants. They were meant to be my “travel pants” and I wear them for long train rides and plane rides. Anyway, I looked pretty nerdy, and the black brought all the heat in, but they did the job and were appropriately modestJ We took the train to Ottaviano station before stepping off into a new country, the Vatican City (smallest country in the world!).
First stop was a walk around the wall of the Vatican City before entering the Vatican Museum.
[Nuns going into the Vatican City:]
We walked through long, crowded halls of tourists and animal sculptures, a courtyard with other beautiful statues and followed the many signs that directed us to our final (and long anticipated) destination, the Sistine Chapel. When you get there, all you do is look up and up and up. It’s an amazing, amazing artistic feat and Michelangelo is said to have painted it all on the request of the Pope (he apparently refused many times, saying he was a sculptor not a painter, but the Pope insisted). In addition, he is said to have painted it all alfresco (where the plaster is mixed with the paint) and all while looking up and standing on scaffolding. He didn’t lie down and paint it from a prostrate position as popular myth claims. The ceiling conveys key events from the Bible. From when God created the world (“Let there be Light”), then his creation of Man (where the two index fingers of God and Adam are famously moving to touch), Man succumbing to temptation, and finally the Last Judgment. We sat on the side, staring up at the ceiling, listening to our Rick Steves audioguide and taking all of its brilliance in. The room, which is huuuuge, was packed with tourists and it was such a highlight to be there, and seeing it. Following its restoration, where large amounts of dirt and soot were removed, the colours are brilliant and I was tempted to take a photo. However, part of the deal with the company who undertook the restoration was, that no photos can be taken. In any case, a photo wouldn’t do it justice. You really must go if you’re ever in Rome.
[Inside the Vatican City:]
[A special view of Rome:]
[Amazing sculptures:]
[Belvedere's torso- One of Michelangelo's many inspirations:]
[The exit to the Vatican Museum:]
We then moved onto St Peter’s Basilica after a quick lunch in a cafeteria near the Sistine Chapel. Man from Mars had a salami roll, while I had what looked like pizza base (pizza dough plus tomato base). It was bland but quick, and fuel for the body, and we then walked a few hundred metres to take in the giant piazza sits in front of the Basilica. The sun was so strong that we couldn’t bring ourselves to stand in the queue that stretched into the hundreds. So we sat in the shade of a statue and waited for the queue to dwindle a little. Thankfully, entry is free and the only reason for the wait was the dress code check and the security check. While the dress code checkers weren’t too strict at the Sistine Chapel, they were out in force at the Basilica and I saw lots of girls in denim shorts and lots of men in short walking shorts, refused entry. Bummer.
[St Peter's Basilica:]
[The many pilgrims who come to see the Pope speak sit in the thousands of chairs that are arranged in front of the Basilica:]
Inside, the Cathedral is massive. Apparently, it’s the length of two football fields and it’s gold, marble, painting, sculptures everywhere. There are lots of domes, paintings on ceilings and a story behind every door and statue. In addition, there is a glass box which holds the body of Pope John XXIII. It’s perfectly preserved, if a little eerie.
[The roof of the Basilica:]
The final highlight is Michelangelo’s Pieta from 1499 which depicts Mary holding a limp Jesus in her arms. Her expression is so sad, and the way she is cradling him is tender and maternal. Here is a photo, taken of it behind its bulletproof case (added after a loony tried to smash it a number of years back):
We ended our visit at the Vatican City post office and sent some postcards to mark our visit to perhaps the biggest postoffice for the world’s smallest nation.
When he was well enough (about 9 pm), we decided to go grocery shopping because he wasn’t up for a complex Italian three course dinner. All the grocery shops around us were closed except for the one at Termini train station, so we sweated it out and walked with our backpack, to the station to stock up. We enjoyed a nice hotel room feast of honey sandwiches with fruit salad and probiotic drink and to be honest, after all this pasta, pizza and tomato, it was really really good!
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